Method of making coats and coat produced by such method



R. COHEN June 16, 1931.

METHOD OF MAKING COATS AND COAT PRODUCED BY SUCH METHOD- 7 Filed Sept. 9, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR Puczozjafi C0716 BY 4 7% 7Z0": ATTORNEY Juhe 16, '1931; R COHEN 1,810,160

METHOD OF MAKING COATS AND COAT PRODUCED BY SUCH METHOD Filed Sept. 9; 1929 k 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 2:3 ATTORNEY Patented June 16, 1931 RUDOLPH conn v, on nocnnsrnn, NEW YORK PAT ENT; ()FFICE METHOD OF MAKING COATS AND COAT'PROIDUCED IBY SUCI-L METHOD Application filed September 9, 1929. Serial No. 391,234.

The present invention relates to a method of making coats and a coat produced by such 'method. An object of the invention is to make it possible to obtain a coat which has its shoulder portions so formed as to conform more accurately to the: human form. Another object of the invention isto so form the shoulders of a coat that. each will have a concave front to conform to the cavity in the face of a human shoulder, and a bulged portion at the rear to conformtothe human shoulder blades While at the same time the goods will be cleared of any wrinkles along the seams of the collar and the sleeves and the sleeve seam will be lifted at the shoulder seam'to obtain a vertical seam where the sleeve is attached to the garment.

To these and other ends, the invention consists of the coat and steps for making the same set forth in the appended claims and more particularlydescribed in. the specification. 1 v

--In thedrawings: I

Fig. 1 shows a front section and a rear section of a mans coat seamed together at their sides; a

Fig. 2 is a plan View of a. canvas wh ch may be'employed for carrying out my 1nvention; i I V Fig. 3 is an outside view showmg the canvas'basted to the inner face of a frontsection;

Fig. 1 is a fragmentary view showing a front and a back seamed together at the shoulder and the side, the collar being secured in position;. I 7

Fig. 5 is'a fragmentaryperspective vlew showing the manner in wh1ch the fullness is obtained at the shoulder seam for distribution to obtain the results of this invention; Fig. 6 is a fragmentary view showing the manner in which the fullness is distributed; Fig. 7 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the manner in which thecanvas and shoulder'pad'ar'e stitched;'and

i. Fig. 8 a perspective View Ofthe finished coat.

Itis customaryin making coats for mento provlde a front from two pieces 1 and a back from either a single piece or two pieces 2 which are secured together by a back'seam and to. the front pieces by side seams 3 and shoulder seamsl. .A canvas 5'is first basted on the inner face of each front piece and has a shoulder pad attached thereto, the sleeves '6 being each secured to a front and a back piece by a sleeve seam 7. The human shoulderis concave on the front face and convex on the rear due to the shoulder blade, and

the garment to lie at an angle to the vertical.

Heretofore, the general practice has been to produce a fullness in the top of the canvas adjacent the shoulder seam by an'insert' and then stretch the outside goodsat the shoulder seam by pressing. The results from the usual methodhave never been satisfactory for the reasons set forth above.

According to this invention, the fullness is created in the outside goods at the shoulder seam and this fullness is distributed so that a concave. front is obtained in the shoulder, a convex back portion is secured for the shoulder blade, the drooping of the sleeve seam at the shoulder is avoided, thus giving a vertical appearance to the sleeve seam when viewed from the, front of the garment, and the wrinkles adjacent the collar and the sleeveseam do not occur.

As illustrating one form of this method,

the canvas 5 instead ofhaving a fullness due to an insert as has heretofore been made may be cut as shownat 8 with a. slit having without at the same time lengthening the than for soft goods.

upper edge 9. However, the known designs and methods of shaping or forming the canvas may be also used. After the canvas is finished the pad 10 is sewed thereto, and both are now basted on the inner face of the front, the canvas and pad being free at the shoulder seam and sleeve opening. The collar 11 and sleeve 6 are now seamed in their positions. p

After the coat is in substantially this state, a temporary tuck 12 is made, in the outer cloth of the coat independently of' the canvas and the pad and extending transversely of the shoulder seam on opposite sides of the latter, this tuck being held in shape by a pin 13 or basting,thread or other suitable means. The size of this tuck varies according to the quality of the outer cloth. For hard goods at smaller tuck is .used For soft goods about 10/16 of an inch is preferred to be included in the tuck. The canvas and pad are now basted at the pointlt, and the canvas and pad are straightened out along the shoulder seam 4 and then basted at 15.

The tuoksecuri'ng means '13 is now removed. and the front or outside cloth is flattened out to conform to the canvas. .In flattening out the outside cloth, the surplus goods .is pressed toward the rear of the shoulder of thecoa t, thus causing the shoulder seam 4 to be shifted at its center toward the rear and producing a convex portion in the back piece to conform to the shoulder blade and a concave in the front piece 1. At. the sametime the front goods are cleared of wrinkles adj acerit the collar and the sleeve seam 7 The canvas and collar are now temporarily bjasted to the outer cloth at 16 to be held in this position until finally stitched in the garment in the usual manner. After the garment is completed in vthe customary manner, .the

pressing operation condenses the outer cloth in the stitched position. Owing to the fact that the shoulder seam f is shortened by the tucking, the securing of the outer cloth shortens the distance between the collar and the sleeve and as a consequence, a portion of the padding and the canvas adjacent the sleeve seam 7 must be cut off, thus shortening the canvas adjacent the shoulder seam, and thereby holding up the sleeve at the top of the sleeve seam, preventing the down sagging of the shoulder and maintaining the sleeve seam 7 in a vertical position when viewed from the front ofthe garment. The coat fits into the hollow of the shoulderinstead of riding on the point of the shoulder. This allows free movement to the arm and the shoulder. without materially affecting the position of thecollar. 7

From the foregoing it will be seen that there has been provided a new method of making coats in which the canvas is shortened at the shoulder seam instead of being lengthened thus preventing a drooping shoulder, while the outside goods of the gar ment instead of being stretched adjacent the shoulder seam is condensed and shifted partially toward the rear of the shoulder so as to produce a properly shaped back piece for the shoulder blade, a concave front and straight shoulder, and the clearing up of the shoulder of wrinkles adj acent the collar and the sleeve. It is apparent that the finished. coat has more material in its front piece between the collar and the sleeve at the shoulder seam than has the canvas'and that this additional material spreads rearwardly at the shoulder seams -so that a fitted condition is produced over the shoulder blades in the back piece adjacent the shoulder seams.

What I claim as my invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A method of making coats which comprises taking a'temporary tuck in the outside goods at the shoulder seam, securing the outside goods to the canvas at two spaced points near the shoulder seam one adjacent the collar and the other adjacent the sleeve, while leaving the outside goods free of the canvas between said points, removing the tuck holding means, vspreading the outside, goods on the canvas by distributing the additional material rearwardly in the shoulder, securing to the canvas the outside goods in the distributed condition, and then finishing the operations on the coat. I V

2. The method of making coats which comprises producing a bulge at the shoulder seam of theoutside goods before the canvas issecured at the shoulder seam, securing the canvas to the outside goods adjacent the shoulder seam at two spaced points, one near the collar and theother near the sleeve while the outside goods are bulged and the canvas is in an unbulged condition between the, secured points, spreading the bulged portion of the outside goods rearwardly, and securing the canvas to the outside goods while. the latter is so spread.

8. A coat having a canvas, its outer cloth shifted from normal rearwardly over and relatively to the canvas at each shoulder seam between two points, one adjacent the sleeve seam and theother adjacent the collar seam, a concave front adjacentone side of. each shoulder seam, and a bulged back adjacent the other side of each shoulder seam. H

' 4. A coat having a canvas, its other cloth secured to the canvas at each shoulder seam at two spaced points adjacent the. collar seam and theflshoulder seam, the distance between such points being less on the canvas than on the outer garment. when the latter is unsecured to or free from the canvas between said points so that an excess of material will under such conditions exist in the other garment between the two points, the excess material in the outer garment between the two points-being secured in a rearwardly shifted position to the canvas between the two points, and the coat having a concave front portion adjacent each shoulder seam and a bulged back portion adjacent each shoulder seam produced by such shifting of the excess material.

RUDOLPH COHEN. 

